The clutch line is an aftermarket product.

The genuine pipe No. 27 in the illustration (Pipe B, clutch 46961-SL0-000) runs deep along the floor, making post-installation difficult.
Therefore, we used an aftermarket mesh hose along with Pipe No. 26 (Pipe A, clutch 46960-SL0-010). You can also specify the specifications and purchase it Kinokuniopen_in_new , but since it was a hassle to find the appropriate length, I used the AT to MT conversion clutch lineopen_in_new sold by RFY.

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RFY AT to MT conversion clutch line

1. This clutch line is designed to connect directly to the hose on the release cylinder side, making it clutch damper-less. However, the clutch hose bracket (No. 31 in the illustration) is fixed to the clutch damper bracket (No. 38 in the illustration), so you will need the clutch damper bracket to secure the hose to the body.
   This clutch hose bracket (product number: T3R-46968) is sold by T3TEC. the clutch hose bracket (product number: T3R-46968)open_in_new is sold by T3TEC. This allows you to secure the hose to the body alone, giving it a neater appearance.
2. These are only the parts related to the clutch master cylinder, but only the master cylinder itself is assembled to a certain extent, and all other parts are sold individually. This is not limited to this part, but each bolt is individually packed in a bag, making it difficult to identify the parts you have purchased.

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Clutch master cylinder related parts

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Comparison of the Coupe shift lever and the 02R shift lever

2. I purchased the 02R shift lever (also compatible with the type S) because it's a short type, which is often used.
   The one on the left is for the Coupe (54101-SL0-000), and the one on the right is for the 02R/Type S (54101-SL0-010).
   The only difference is that the 02R/Type S version has more threads.
   Since the coupe version has now been discontinued and has been integrated into the 02R/typeS, the only option left was the 02R/typeS.
   The 92R version has a unique design, with tapped holes on the shift lever side and a bolt-integrated shift knob side.
   I didn't choose it because I couldn't install an aftermarket shift knob and didn't see any significant benefits.

Prices as of January 2010

There were two types of shift control wires with different part numbers: for the 5MT (54310-SL0-023) and for the 6MT (54310-SL0-033), but production of the 5MT version has now been discontinued and they have been integrated into the 6MT version. It doesn't matter which one you use, but the difference is that the 5MT version allows you to adjust the wire length on both ends, while the 6MT version has a fixed length on one end.
Apparently, the 6MT version has a fixed length on one end due to increased precision during production, but the 5MT version, which can be adjusted on both ends, allows for finer adjustments and is said to make operation lighter.

1. I purchased the shift cable used from an Acura NSX on eBay. Since there are more NSXs sold in the US than in Japan, it was available cheaply on eBay at the time. It cost me $199. At the time, the yen was strong (1 dollar = 85 yen), so I got it for just 16,915 yen at the exchange rate.

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5MT Shift Control Wire 54310-SL0-023

The clutch pedal is for the NSX-R.

1. I purchased the clutch pedal for the NA1 NSX-R. The fulcrum, application point, and assist spring mounting position of the NSX-R pedal are all the same as those for the Coupe, but the pedal portion is lowered approximately 20 mm. Because the clutch stroke changes depending on whether or not a clutch damper is installed, I used the NSX-R pedal, which has a pedal position that is appropriate for the damperless configuration. There are two types of NSX-R pedals: one for the NA1 NSX-R and one for the NA2 NSX-R. The NA2 NSX-R pedal (35710-SE3-A01) has an additional arm for attaching a stopper to press the inhibitor switch. Since an inhibitor switch is not necessary, I used the NA1 NSX-R pedal (46910-SL0-J00). There are two types of clutch switches: a three-pole type for the Coupe and a two-pole type for the NSX-R. Since two signals are required for the cruise control to function properly, I chose the three-pole type (36760-SM4-003).

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Assembled NSX-R clutch pedal

1. The bracket position on the half shaft assembly is different between automatic and manual transmissions, so it needs to be replaced for manual transmission. The shaft itself is only a slight difference in length, so it seems like it could be reused, but the bracket cannot be purchased separately, so you will need to purchase the half shaft assembly. At the time, a used one removed from an Acura NSX was available cheaply, so I purchased it on eBay. The purchase price was $110. At the exchange rate at the time (1 dollar = 85 yen), it came to 9,350 yen.
2. When I checked the half shaft that arrived, it seemed thinner than the MT shafts I had seen in books, so I measured the shaft diameter and found it was φ30.5mm, the same as the AT shaft (the Japanese-spec MT shaft is φ34.5mm).
3. The bracket is stamped "MT" so it can be installed on a manual transmission. I checked some photos of half shafts for the 5-speed manual transmission Acura NSX and they were similarly thin, so I'm not sure if it's because of the gear ratio, but I think the Acura NSX, unlike the Japanese model, has the same shaft diameter as the automatic transmission.

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Acura NSX MT half shaft

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Acura NSX MT Half Shaft Diameter Measurement

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Acura NSX MT half shaft "MT" engraved

The drive shaft is the same as that for the AT.

1. The right-side (driver's side) driveshaft has the same part number for both AT and MT, but the left-side (passenger's side) driveshaft has a different part number, and the service manual states that the MT version is 6mm shorter than the AT version. While it would be best to replace the left side with one for MT, looking at the conversion experiences of many people, many have used the AT driveshaft as is, and there didn't seem to be any particular issues, so I decided to use the AT driveshaft as is. Installation went smoothly, and I encountered no issues at all.

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Drive shaft reference dimension measurement points

Select genuine twin plate clutch

We considered installing an aftermarket clutch, but if we didn't like it, it's not something that can be easily replaced, so we had to think carefully about it. Even though it was a genuine part, the twin plates had enough capacity, so we decided to buy a used genuine clutch and flywheel set and use only a new clutch disc.

1. Because it is a twin plate, a centering tool with a properly splined centering tool is required. There are no used main shafts available that can be used as a centering tool, and the original clutch alignment shaft (07MAF-PR80100) is no longer in production and is difficult to obtain, so
   I used ScienceofSpeedopen_in_new Clutch Alignment Toolopen_in_new. It is made of resin, but reasonably priced at $12.4.

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ScienceofSpeed ​​Clutch Centering Tool

There are two types of mounts with different shapes

1. Mounts are a consumable item, so I don't recommend using them, but I happened to be able to find some in good condition, so I used them secondhand. While the three mounts have different part numbers for automatic and manual transmissions, the rubber side engine mounting (50820-SL0-000) on the front of the engine differs in hardness but has the same mounting dimensions. If you're replacing the engine with minimal parts, you only need the rubber transmission mounting (50805-SL0-010) and rubber rear engine mounting (50810-SL0-010), which differ in shape. Someone previously compared the mounts for automatic and manual transmissions in terms of vibration frequency, and their report found that the rubber in the mounts for automatic transmissions was harder than that for manual transmissions. Since the transmission itself is significantly heavier in automatic transmissions, the result that the mounts for automatic transmissions are harder seems reasonable.

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NSX mission mount